British model David Gandy gets the work over in Sunday’s edition of The Times.
Currently the face of Dolce & Gabbana’s Light Blue Pour Homme cologne, Gandy and his package can be seen on billboards, magazine ads and commercials the world over. His masculinity represents a sea change in the industry, says Lisa Armstrong.
Despite the the lusty zeitgeist, don’t hold your breath for any gay adverts – the fashion world ain’t ready.
Famed photographer Mario Testino tells Armstrong:
David has something of what the 1980s supermodels have. He radiates health and positivity. I think he has what it takes to be very big. Itâ€™s exciting because it signifies a real shift in menâ€™s fashion. That whole skinny, decadent look is very limited. The male model world is changing. I think thatâ€™s partly to do with peopleâ€™s sexuality blurring. The girls really get him as much as the boys.
Of this, Armstrong writes:
Ah yes, the gay thing. One cannot delve too deeply into the male modelling world without coming up against it. So what, you may ask. Surely this cannot still be an issue. Not in 2007? Not in fashion? The answer is yes and no. Or, as Charlie Porter puts it, â€œdesigner brands rely heavily on the gay market, yet at the same time theyâ€™re frightened of acknowledging it too much in case it alienates mainstream markets, especially in the US, especially in the current retail climate.â€
GQ, for instance, although one of the countryâ€™s leading menâ€™s magazines, would never put a male model on its cover. Even Dolce & Gabbana, a label that has managed to make a commercial virtue out of high camp, particularly in its catwalk shows, where male models recently plodded past the front row in white spacesuits, placed a hot-looking female under Gandy in the television ad, just to dispel any lingering doubts. The ambivalence is evident in the fact that, according to Gandyâ€™s booker at Select, until a few years ago 99 per cent of male models were gay. Now they are not, but if Gandy can, so to speak, straddle these two demographics, then he may indeed hit the jackpot.
A campaign with Dolce & Gabbana? We know you’re the fashion expert, Armstrong, but we think Gandy’s already hit the jackpot. Luckily his ad campaigns share the wealth, what Armstrong describes as Gandy’s “crotch of Brobdingnagian dimensions”.
Relive Gandy’s Morning Good here!
Also, despite what Armstrong and Testino may say, a number of fashion companies, including Dolce & Gabbana, play gay in ad space and on air. What’s more, they get Commercial Closet nominations for doing so…