For many people, one’s hairstyle can affect their self-image, confidence, and even identity. Cutting your hair or making a big style change can drastically change the way you view yourself. But when you’re trans, getting a good haircut can be quite the struggle.
For one, some trans men with softer, more “feminine” features can feel dysphoric with certain hairstyles. Plus, in some places, it can be hard to find barber shops that are accepting, respectful, and don’t reek of toxic cis-hetero energy.
In this short guide, we offer some basic tips for finding the best FTM haircuts pre-T or post-T, as well as some advice on choosing the right barber or stylist.
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Understanding Your Face Shape
Before walking into a barber shop, it’s good to understand how a guy’s hair can affect their facial shape, and vice versa. That way, you can narrow down which styles will highlight your best features and pull focus away from things you don’t want to accentuate.
The best FTM hairstyle is the one that helps you achieve your ideal look – in most cases, this means to “masculinize” your face. Typically, cisgender men tend to have more square or angular faces, while those who are AFAB may have softer features (though this isn’t always the case).
When trans men take testosterone, their face shape may “harden” a bit and become more masculine-looking. But it should be noted that each trans person’s medical journey will be different, and not all trans men can or want to take T.
With that being said, there are ways that your hair can be styled to suit your face shape, whatever it may be.
Round-Shaped Faces
People with round faces tend to have small foreheads and nearly identical measurements for the length and width of their faces. When finding flattering FTM haircuts for a round face, people may feel a little frustrated at first. This is because the curves in the chin and jawline may cause you to look more feminine or baby-faced than you hope.
But there are ways to remedy this. The goal is to find a hairstyle that will give you more angles, structure, and have a slimming effect on your face. Styles that are short on the sides and longer on top can give this illusion. An undercut or fade paired with a pompadour or textured quiff will make your face look more square and give you a bit of height as well. You can also style your hair slicked-back or even curly. The key is to add volume at the top.
As much as possible, avoid a super short haircut like a buzz cut or a crew cut, as it may emphasize the roundness of your head. If shaving is still the route you want to go, keep the clipper blade number to at least 2 or 3.
Square-Shaped Faces
People with square-shaped faces have strong, angular jaws and square foreheads. Typically, the face looks evenly proportioned like, well, a square. For most people, these features are what are considered stereotypically “masculine” – so count yourself lucky if you have a naturally square face.
Short and simple styles tend to look good on square faces, as these emphasize the strong angles. However, if you want to minimize the squareness a tad, you can go for a slightly longer, textured look with a deep side part or short bangs. A classic, swept-back look, tousled locks, or even curls can provide some contrast too.
If you’re several years into your HRT and want to soften your jaw a bit, try growing out some stubble to minimize the angles.
Oval-Shaped Faces
The oval face is like Goldilocks of facial structures. It is not too wide, not too long, and looks good with just about any hair style. What does it look like? Oval faces are just slightly longer than they are wide, with soft lines and a forehead that is just a smidge wider than the jaw.
While oval-faced guys can get away with most haircuts, they still have to be mindful of a few unflattering styles. Too much volume or height at the top can elongate the face further, while bangs can make the face appear rounder and more feminine. As with round face shapes, crew cuts and undercuts are very flattering for oval faces. If you’re feeling adventurous, try a close shave!
Rectangle or Oblong Faces
If you need a reference for rectangle-shaped faces, look to Ben Affleck, Sacha Baron Cohen, and Zayn Malik. All of these men have long faces with foreheads, cheekbones, and jaws of similar widths.
With an oblong-shaped face, you’ll want to keep your hair short at the top. Too much height or volume will only lengthen your face further – so no pompadours or long beards. Bangs, slicked-back hair, grown-out fades, a flat top, and side parts are all great options for keeping things balanced.
Diamond Face
Guys with diamond-shaped faces have pronounced cheekbones, pointed chins, and narrow foreheads. For this face shape, the goal is to create balance and fill out the spaces to make the face look more square-ish.
If this sounds like you, you’ll want to create more width at the forehead. Textured crops with length on the sides and long center parts do a good job at this. And while long hair may not be on your list of ideal trans boy haircuts, keep in mind that a long, layered shag can do wonders for a diamond-shaped face.
If you’re self-conscious about having a narrow chin, growing out a full beard can help hide the fact.
Triangle or Heart-Shaped Faces
Heart-shaped faces have wide upper halves, while the jaws taper to a pointed chin. The best masculine haircuts for FTMs with triangle or heart-shaped faces are mid-length styles with a good amount of volume on top. The volume will minimize the width of your temples and cheekbones, while making the face appear slightly more elongated at the same time.
Know Which Features to Hide and Accentuate
If you’re self-conscious about a particular aspect of your appearance, the following tips may help:
Ear Size
Longer hair solves the problem of big ears. But if you want a shorter style, you can ask your barber to make your arches lower than normal. If you feel like your ears are too small, on the other hand, you can ask for a higher arch.
Chin Size and Jawline
For a lot of trans men, the chin and jawline can be a constant source of anxiety. Facial hair can strengthen a weak jawline and add more definition to a rounded chin, whether it be a full beard or some light stubble. Flat sideburns may also help strengthen the jaw.
Receding Hairline
Before you transition, you should know that some trans men will lose their hair when they go on T. If you feel that your hairline is receding during your transition, consider a cropped cut like a buzz cut or a crew cut. A full beard can also help offset the lack of hair up top.
Height
Another major source of insecurity for trans men is height. If you’re on the short side, don’t keep your hair flat. A voluminous updo like a pompadour or a brush cut can give you a boost.
Choosing The Right Barber
Your first time getting a masculine haircut may feel intimidating. You may be afraid that you won’t pass or that you’ll visibly stand out at the barbershop. You may even want to go to the women’s salon you used to frequent pre-transition. But if you want to avoid a feminine cut and fully look and feel like a dude, your best bet is to find a good barber.
The best way to go about this is actually quite simple and is pretty much the same thing that most guys do to find a good barber anyway. Just ask around! People love to recommend the services of a good barber.
If you don’t want to feel nervous or awkward, feel free to get the help of a straight guy friend. Bring some reference photos so you can show the barber exactly what kind of cut you want, but don’t be afraid to ask them to suggest styles they might think would look right for you.
Generally speaking, many barbers are quite open-minded anyway. After all, they see clients of all ages, colors, shapes, and sizes on a daily basis.
The Bottom Line On FTM Haircuts
A good haircut can do wonders for your self-confidence. So, get to know your face shape and pick the right barber before you head into that chair! We hope this guide has given you some insight into how to find the best FTM haircut.
RELATED: The Trans Man Denied A Haircut Over “Religious Freedom” Is Exploring A Lawsuit
Thad
This article is not for trans men only. A “beauty” article with helpful advice for almost everyone? I’m with it.
Huron132
Very true. Making me think about trying these ideas!
Hank31
Female with short hair =/= male.
minorheadlines
True, but a transman is a man – if you want to be transphobic gtfo
Hank31
“FTM” – as used in the headline – stands for “Female-to-Male.” So-called “transmen” are not male. If they were male, they wouldn’t be trans.
Cam
We can always depend on the right wing troll account coming on to any article about trans people.
This topic CERTIANLLY seems to trigger you. Almost as if you have unresolved gender issues yourself. Is that what you’re doing? Attacking transpeople because you can’t attack that part of yourself?
nm4047
when the ‘male patent baldness’ starts, then you can start talking about FTM.
Cam
As they are on male hormones, yes, that happens to them too.
Cam
An interesting article, there are things different groups go through that never occur to others. Just finding the right new haircut that feels correct is apparently a journey.