As the latest menswear collections indicate, we’re moving ever closer and closer to a society in which gender simply doesn’t matter — from gender neutral bathrooms to Facebook’s embrace of the gender spectrum and iconic Selfridges doing away with binary clothing departments all together.
Fashion can either reenforce or radically alter traditional gender roles — but it also interprets cultural shifts. And the transformation we are seeing in the Millennials’ understanding of gender is starting to be reflected everywhere, from Hollywood to high school and the workplace.
For the past 50 years or so, women’s fashion has had a notable flirtation with le masculine, but increasingly men’s fashion, too, has straddled the gender divide.
With the transgender equality movement challenging the way we perceive gender and younger generations comfortable rejecting and redefining identity, let’s take a look at how fashion has and continues to influence the way we see and represent gender.
An Enlightened Idea
The Enlightenment first introduced to the Western world the idea of fashion as a barometer of culture and society, as well as a means of self-expression. Here we see the roots of fashion’s impact on gender representation — and how it has changed in some 300 years.
Le smoking in the Girls’ Room
Yves Saint Laurent debuted le smoking, a woman’s tuxedo, in 1966, helping to usher in the modern era of fashion with its subversion of gender norms.
“Woman into Man”
Featuring female models (including Gia Carangi) in dual roles, Helmut Newton’s iconic “Woman into Man” series for Vogue Paris in 1979 played provocatively with masculin/féminin.
The Andorgynicons
Androgyny hit the mainstream with musical superstars who in turn became fashion icons for their imitable style, like David Bowie.
And Boy George.
Let’s Talk About Unisex
The high-octane, cocaine-fueled hedonism of the ’80s gave way to the more somber ’90s, with glam going grunge. Here, Naomi Campbell and Kristen McMemany smell like teen spirit in Marc Jacobs’s controversial collection for Perry Ellis, photographed by Steven Meisel for Vogue in 1992.
A rise in contempo-casual also saw a uniformity in the way men and women dressed, as seen in this popular Gap khaki ad.
Supermodels of the World
Having high-stepped in haute couture shows and starred in commercial campaigns, trans supermodels Lea T (giving life above) and Andreja Pejic continue to break down barriers in the billion dollar fashion and beauty industries. In November Redken partnered with Lea T, making her the first transgender model to become the face of a global cosmetics brand.Meanwhile, Andreja — seen here making her return to the runway in Giles Fall 2015 show in London — will break into the movie biz in a role in Sofia Coppola’s upcoming Little Mermaid.
Blurred Lines
“The lines between male and female have become increasingly blurred,” trend-forecaster extraordinaire Lucie Greene told The New York Times, noting those blurred lines reflected in the fall collections by a number of gender-bending menswear designers including Hood by Air and Telfar (above).
Retail Revolution
Selfridges — the second largest department store in the UK, but voted best in the world — is doing away with its mens and womens departments , as well as their traditional mannequins, in favor of gender-neutral shopping.
“We want to take our customers on a journey where they can shop and dress without limitations or stereotypes,” a spokesperson told The Sunday Times. “A space where clothing is no longer imbued with directive gender values, enabling fashion to exist as a purer expression of ‘self.”’
Les Fabian Brathwaite, open to the world since 1985.
Realitycheck
Fashion is always evolving and thank god for that, life should be fun and
diversified, but for me and for now, I love my trousers.
VampDC
Believe it or not I’m a gay man who loves being a man. Anyone else?
Realitycheck
I do, I never had any interest in make up and female clothing,
or the leather overly masculine look, I simply
prefer the average guy.
DolceFarNiente
We should not have a gender fluid society… Let’s not take equality too literal, otherwise we would all be the same gender with the same length of hair and wear the same clothes, so nobody feels different whatsoever. Male and Female is the most beautiful thing created.
Also I’ve been to a gender neutral bathroom, longest line ever. Just bad logic.
DolceFarNiente
Also, women and men’s sizing is different for obvious reasons, so department stores would still have to have separate sections.
Charli Girl
All good points , however I don’t like societies expectations of what I should wear, I mix it up and drive the retailers insane! And I always respond with the same answer when they say” is that the mans shirt, boots or whatever.. I always say ” it’s not if they didn’t purchase it” If I buy it, it’s just mine!!” Lol
Jim2
@VampDC: I’m a straight man and I also love being a man, but I suspect that when you said that you had in mind that a man who wears a skirt is not a “man” in your sense. How do the clothes one wears affect one’s gender? I would have thought that that and one’s sexual orientation is determined by your brain, while one’s sex is determined by your body parts. What does any of this have to do with one’s clothing?
Jim2
@DolceFarNiente: Different men, as well as different women, have very different sizes. That is why racks of clothing currently designated by gender have lots of different sizes. When clothes are separated by gender, there is no need to put the different sizes in different sections, so why would there be such a need if clothing is not separated by gender. I would note, too, that there are many tall women and short men.
Jim2
@DolceFarNiente: What do clothing and length of hair have to do with gender, which is totally about what’s in your brain. By the way if you think that a society in which men are known to wear skirts or skirt-like garments is gender fluid, then I hate to inform you but there are lots of such societies in the world today, Indonesia, Malaysia, Myanmar, Fiji, Samoa, India, to name just a few. So “we” meaning the human race, already have plenty of it.