Yee-haw! Gay cowboys are taking over this colonial city, forging a community and finding freedom

From Pedro Pascal’s short film A Strange Way Of Life to the Hallmark Channel’s show Ride, gay cowboys are having a moment. They’re also heating things up south of the border.

Every year, tens of thousands of gays descend upon the Mexican coastal city of Puerto Vallarta for fun in the sun and wild nights full of debauchery. But PV isn’t the only Mexican town that plays host to gays looking for a little rendezvous.

The colonial city Zacatecas, which is about nine hours east of the Pacific Ocean, attracts hundreds of men from across Mexico and the U.S. for its annual gathering of gay vaqueros–or cowboys. They share traditional Mexican food, folk dances and crown a cowboy king.

The Los Angeles Times recently spotlighted this phenomenon, interviewing multiple participants who found their calling within the subculture. Cowboy fetishes are common in the gay community, with the prevalence of assless chaps and fascination with old-school, country Western masculinity.

But in Zacatecas, the gay cowboy events are much more than prolonged role plays. Visitors attend so they can develop a link to Mexico’s past.

Each spring, hundreds of men from across #Mexico and the United States make a pilgrimage to #Zacatecas for an annual gathering of gay vaqueros — or cowboys. @latimes — https://t.co/4UVlASMQ1v — Reporting by @katelinthicum pic.twitter.com/zoIHbeamor

— Gary Coronado (@gary_coronado) May 22, 2023

“When you come here, you feel a certain pride in being Mexican,” said Emmanuel Fernández, a 29-year-old lawyer who was interviewed for the piece.

While living in Georgia, Fernández felt alone and isolated. He spoke little English and became disenchanted with America’s stifling 9-5 work culture. His fortunes changed when he discovered a Latin nightclub, the Sanctuary, and started attending its regular gay cowboy night. He was hooked from there.

“It connects you to your roots,” he said.

The LA Times’ accompanying video features a 56-year-old cowboy named Daniel Renteria, who lived in California for 25 years with his wife. But his life changed eight years ago, when he suffered a near-fatal brain injury and almost died.

Shortly thereafter, he traveled to Zacatecas, and explored his inner-gay cowboy.

“It made me change the way I live my life. I told myself that I have to live each day as if it were my last,” he said.

Renteris and his partner often wear the same clothes, right down to the boots.

The landscape for LGBTQ+ Mexicans is becoming friendlier. Same-sex marriage is legal in every state, and attitudes are quickly changing–especially in urban areas. But there is still some danger in a community like Zacatecas. It’s a small, conservative city with dozens of churches.

“When I’m on the street I’m very discreet,” said Renteria. “I don’t like to go around hugging or kissing.”

But once he’s inside the saloon, that all changes.

“I’m 56 years old, and thanks to God, I really enjoy my life,” he said. “I know that I might look ugly on the outside, old, but I feel very comfortable.”

In the end, that’s all that matters.

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