One-Sided Design War: Stefano v. “Not Gifted” Tom
Oooo, girl! The claws come out in Sunday’s New York Times magazine, in which Yves Saint Laurent creative director Stefano Pilati rips his predecessor, Tom Ford.
Of course, the fashion world’s always kneeling down for Ford, who would do it himself if he knew how. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, but the ceaseless praise doesn’t necessarily make him the best designer. Not in Pilati’s eyes, at least:
…Pilati doesn’t mince words when he compares the late couturier with Ford, his former boss and immediate predecessor at the house, noting that while Saint Laurent challenged women, “Tom had a very precise vision of the company that didn’t challenge women.â€Pilati told editor at large Lynn Hirschberg that “Tom is talented but not gifted. That’s the way he managed the business. Tom would say: ‘We can’t do this silhouette because she looks fat.’ Or, ‘Oh, no — women don’t like this fabric; we can’t use it.’ That mentality was something to learn but was so far from my way of thinking. Why do you want to be safe? I’m more like: Why don’t you wear gray flannel for an evening dress? I find that fantastic! Not Tom, never.”
Tom Ford, we’re sure, doesn’t give a damn.
Gee, catering to your customers MIGHT be why Ford was able to increase sales at BOTH Gucci and St. Laurent, this other guys attitude is why sales at both places were flagging before Ford got there. This isn’t to say that I don’t think Tom Ford is a complete douch-bag.
Tom is too hot to be concerned w/such bitchery.
Tom is a great stylist and is great at designing an image. But for the most part he is not a “great” designer. He is no Slimane, or
Raf Simons or Mcqueen Most of his designs for Gucci were just 70′s designs and make them high end. He is sorta the Madonna of design, all fluff, no substance and lots of sex. None of which is a bad thing but that does not make him a profound designer.
He’s definitely a stylist and an attractive mirage to the low-rent high-fashion nouveau riche set but he’s never been highly respected as a brilliant designer. It’s said that YSL was more than vocal about his disapproval at the appointment of Ford while even former employer Marc Jacobs gaffed at Ford’s lifestyle “I’m not sure exactly what he does but it’s working”.
The man knows how to make money and make people feel good in what they wear (if you are a skinny or muscleman that is).
The Madonna analogy is a good one, just as she has made a career
with a mediocre talent but injected lots of sex, so has Ford. There is something interesting about these middle class kids from 2nd
rate suburban towns in the U.S. that can take their childhood fantasies and turn them into money making empires. Even Fords
new look, that of the classic, old monied gentlemen, is nothing new. But its an image that he is selling and from what I understand
selling very well. But as far as being anything original or innovative he is not. Just like Madonna he takes what is already been done and magnifies a thousand times.
H-O-T!